Where is my Mom now?
This time, she’s in Georgia! And no, not the state. The COUNTRY!
I’ll be honest, Georgia was never really on my travel bucket list. We actually ended up here while trying to find an affordable way to get from Italy to Azerbaijan. After comparing flights and hotels, we discovered that spending three days in Tbilisi was actually the cheaper option!
So, why not?!?
I knew very little about Georgia before arriving, other than its beautiful scenery, rich history, inexpensive food, and famous sulfur baths.
What I didn’t know was that we’d end up on a river cruise that looked like it had been rescued from the bottom of Lake Powell, attend a dinner show where the hostess wrote her own five-star review on my phone, and watch Kim get scrubbed down by a Georgian man in a bathhouse.
Needless to say, Georgia gave us plenty of stories to tell!
Arriving in Georgia: What You Need to Know
Before we could even board our flight to Georgia, we were required to show proof of travel insurance. Thankfully, we had everything ready, but this is definitely something to check before your trip!
Georgia uses the Georgian lari (GEL), which, surprisingly, wasn’t even an option in my iPhone calculator’s currency converter! So I had to look up the exchange rate separately to figure out what we were actually spending.
Another helpful thing to know is that the emergency number here is 112.
Now, let’s talk about getting around Tbilisi because this is one tip you DON’T want to miss!
We had read several warnings about taxi scams at the airport, particularly drivers approaching tourists and claiming to work for Bolt (Georgia’s version of Uber). These drivers can end up charging significantly more than the actual fare, so we made sure to book our ride directly through the Bolt app.
Our 25-minute ride from the airport to the hotel cost about $13 USD!
And it only got better from there. Bolt rides around Tbilisi were incredibly inexpensive, and we ended up using them throughout our stay. Honestly, the cheap transportation was one of our favorite things about Georgia!
Well, that and the cherry wine ice cream… but more on that later.
Where We Stayed: Courtyard by Marriott Tbilisi
For our three nights in Tbilisi, we stayed at the Courtyard by Marriott on Freedom Square, and it ended up being a fantastic location, with many of the city’s main attractions within walking distance!
Our room overlooked the Freedom Monument in the center of a VERY busy traffic circle. The view was great, but the traffic was a different story! Apparently no one in Tbilisi ever sleeps because the cars kept coming. All. Night. Long.
Luckily, we travel with earplugs and a sound machine. Both came in handy.
Aside from the traffic noise, the hotel was great. Comfortable beds, good pillows, and you really couldn’t beat the location.
Even better, I was able to use my Marriott Bonvoy points to cover our stay, which helped make this unexpected stop in Georgia even more affordable. I LOVE being able to use hotel points when we travel.
Day 1: Exploring Tbilisi
Breakfast at The Spot by Chiti
We started our first full day in Tbilisi with breakfast at The Spot by Chiti, a charming little restaurant tucked inside an old brick building. The food was delicious and it was the perfect way to start our morning!
Getting there, however, was a bit of an adventure. There was SO much road construction happening throughout the city that our Bolt driver eventually decided he couldn’t take us any farther. So, he dropped us off and told us to walk the rest of the way!
After breakfast, we stopped at an ATM to withdraw some Georgian lari. We noticed that the yellow ATMs seemed to have lower withdrawal fees than the blue ones, so that’s something worth comparing if you’re visiting.
With 500 GEL in our pockets, we were officially ready to explore Tbilisi!
One thing we weren’t quite prepared for? The HEAT! It was incredibly hot and surprisingly humid, which made walking around the city a little more exhausting than we expected.
The Crooked Clock & One Very Old Church
Our first sightseeing stop was the famous Clock Tower at the Rezo Gabriadze Puppet Theatre, one of the most unique buildings in Tbilisi! The tower looks like something straight out of a fairytale, with its crooked structure, mismatched bricks, colorful tiles, and a clock perched near the top. It almost looks like it could fall over at any moment!
Twice a day, at noon and 7 p.m., the tower puts on a little puppet performance called The Circle of Life. Unfortunately, we missed it, but the clock tower itself was definitely worth stopping to see.
Just a short walk away is Anchiskhati Basilica, one of the oldest surviving churches in Tbilisi, dating all the way back to the 6th century!
I was glad I had brought a headscarf, as women are expected to cover their heads when entering many Georgian Orthodox churches. Inside, the church is filled with beautiful religious artwork and centuries of history. There is something so special about visiting churches that have been standing for more than a thousand years and imagining all the generations of people who have worshipped there.
From there, we made our way to the Bridge of Peace, a modern glass-and-steel pedestrian bridge stretching across the Kura River. Its contemporary design is quite a contrast to the historic buildings and cobblestone streets of Old Tbilisi, but it offers some lovely views of the city!
And this is where our sightseeing took a slightly unexpected turn…
The $20 River Cruise
While exploring near the Bridge of Peace, a young girl approached us and asked if we’d be interested in taking a 30-minute river cruise for $20. A relaxing boat ride with beautiful views of Tbilisi sounded like a great idea, so we figured, why not?!
Well… let’s just say it wasn’t exactly the scenic river cruise we had imagined!
The boat looked like an old pontoon that had sunk to the bottom of Lake Powell sometime in the 1980s and had only recently been brought back to life. It was definitely NOT luxurious, but we climbed aboard anyway!
The river itself was pretty dirty and had a rather unpleasant smell. We did get to see Tbilisi from a different perspective, including a waterfall that looked suspiciously like it was coming straight out of a drainage pipe. I’m sure there’s a much more interesting explanation for it, but we couldn’t help laughing!
Honestly, we spent most of the 30-minute cruise laughing about the whole experience. For $20, we definitely got some entertainment, even if it wasn’t quite what we had expected.
Would I recommend this river cruise? Probably not! But it certainly gave us a funny story to tell, and sometimes that’s half the fun of traveling!
Lunch at Rostam Palace: Trying Traditional Georgian Food
After our entertaining little river cruise, we were ready for lunch! We stopped at Rostam Palace, a restaurant with one of the most interesting interiors I’ve ever seen. There were mirrors, glass, and decorative details EVERYWHERE! It was definitely an experience just walking inside.
One thing Georgia is famous for is its traditional bread and cheese dishes, particularly khachapuri. One popular version is a boat-shaped bread filled with melted cheese, butter, and an egg that you mix together while it’s still hot. If you love bread and cheese, Georgia is definitely the place for you!
We decided to order several different varieties to get a taste of the local cuisine. The traditional cheese-filled bread reminded me a little of stuffed-crust pizza, except it was basically ALL crust!
We also tried versions filled with chicken, meat and cabbage, and spinach. The chicken was definitely our favorite! The meat and cabbage filling was a little dry, and the spinach version didn’t have quite as much flavor as we’d hoped.
I’m always glad when we get the chance to try traditional foods in the countries we visit, even if they don’t end up being our favorites. While it was fun to sample Georgian cuisine, I don’t think I’ll be rushing home to recreate any of these dishes in my own kitchen!
The Dry Bridge Flea Market
After lunch, we had planned to take the gondola up to see the famous Mother of Georgia statue. Unfortunately, when we arrived, the line was over an HOUR long! We weren’t about to spend that much time standing in line in the heat, so we decided to save that adventure for another day.
Instead, we headed over to the Dry Bridge Flea Market, and I’m so glad we did!
This ended up being one of my favorite places to wander around in Tbilisi. The market is filled with vendors selling everything from beautiful paintings and handmade jewelry to antiques, old cameras, Soviet-era memorabilia, and all sorts of unusual treasures. You really never know what you’re going to find!
The market stretches through the surrounding park and along the bridge, with artwork displayed along the walkways and vendors tucked into little corners. I especially enjoyed browsing the paintings, and some of the local artwork was absolutely beautiful.
Even if you’re not planning to buy anything, I would definitely recommend stopping by. It’s a fun way to spend an afternoon, browse some unique souvenirs, and experience a different side of Tbilisi!
The Georgian Dinner Show That Wasn’t Quite What We Expected
That evening, we had booked what was advertised as a traditional Georgian dinner and dance performance. I was really looking forward to experiencing some of the local culture, enjoying traditional Georgian food, and watching dancers perform in their beautiful costumes.
Well… let’s just say the evening didn’t go quite as planned!
When we arrived, we were escorted into what looked more like a giant banquet hall than the traditional restaurant I had imagined. Several tour groups of about 15–20 people were seated around long tables, and we were served a vegetarian meal consisting of black bean soup, cornbread, and a variety of local dishes.
Eventually, the dancers came out to perform, but instead of dancing on a stage, they performed around the tables. Unfortunately, many of the other guests had been enjoying a LOT of Georgian wine and kept standing up, completely blocking our view!
So, while we could HEAR the dancing, actually seeing much of it was another story.
As the evening went on, the crowd became increasingly rowdy, and we were more than ready to call it a night. Needless to say, this wasn’t quite the cultural experience we had been hoping for!
But the best part happened AFTER we left.
While we were standing outside waiting for our Bolt, the hostess approached us and asked to see our reservation ticket on my phone. Without thinking much of it, I handed it over.
And wouldn’t you know it… she proceeded to write her own FIVE-STAR REVIEW of the evening on MY phone!!
I couldn’t believe it! Apparently, if you can’t get your guests to leave a five-star review, you just write one yourself!
I think it’s safe to say we would NOT recommend this particular dinner show. But between the questionable river cruise and our rather unusual dinner experience, Tbilisi was certainly keeping us entertained!
What a way to end our first day in Georgia!
Day 2: Giant Monuments, Mountaintop Views & Georgian Sulfur Baths
After a VERY full first day exploring Tbilisi, we decided to do something we rarely do on vacation… SLEEP IN!
Once we finally got moving, we headed out for brunch at Breakfast Is, a small, cozy restaurant with just a handful of tables. The food was fresh, delicious, and reasonably priced. Exactly what we needed before another day of sightseeing!
Along the way, we happened to pass a barber shop, and Kim decided it was the perfect opportunity to get a haircut. Because apparently getting a haircut in Georgia was also on our itinerary!
With full stomachs and Kim sporting a fresh haircut, we were ready to see more of Tbilisi!
The Chronicles of Georgia
Our next stop was the Chronicles of Georgia, an enormous monument located about 30 minutes outside the city center. We booked a Bolt to take us there, and the entire ride cost us approximately $7 USD! I seriously don’t know how these drivers make any money, but we certainly weren’t complaining!
The Chronicles of Georgia, sometimes referred to as the Stonehenge of Tbilisi, is one of the most impressive monuments I’ve ever seen. Designed by Georgian sculptor Zurab Tsereteli, construction began in the 1980s, and the monument features MASSIVE stone and bronze columns covered in intricate carvings depicting Georgia’s history and Christianity.
Some of the pillars reach approximately 30–35 meters (100–115 feet) tall, and standing next to them really puts their size into perspective. The carvings are incredibly detailed, and the entire monument is quite breathtaking!
There are quite a few stairs to climb to reach the monument, but you’re rewarded with beautiful views of the surrounding city and the Tbilisi Sea reservoir in the distance.
My tip: Don’t just take pictures from the front steps! Make sure to walk around the sides and back of the monument, where there tend to be fewer people. This is where you can really appreciate just how enormous these pillars are, and it’s a great spot for photos!
Even better, the Chronicles of Georgia is FREE to visit, making it a fantastic addition to your Tbilisi itinerary.
The only little challenge we had was getting a Bolt to pick us up afterward. We had trouble getting service on our phones and ended up walking around for a bit before we could finally book a ride. So, keep that in mind if you’re planning to visit!
Mtatsminda Park & the Ferris Wheel
Our next adventure took us to Mtatsminda Park, an amusement park perched high on a hill overlooking Tbilisi. To get there, we headed to the lower funicular station and purchased round-trip tickets for 25 GEL per person. The funicular runs approximately every 20 minutes and takes you right up to the park.
At the top, we found a charming, slightly quirky amusement park filled with rides, restaurants, and some of the BEST views of Tbilisi! It had a bit of an old-fashioned feel, which I actually really enjoyed.
We wandered around the park for a while before deciding to ride the giant Ferris wheel. At just 10 GEL per person, how could we pass that up?!
The views from the top were wonderful! We could see the entire city spread out below us, with colorful buildings, winding streets, and rolling hills stretching into the distance. If you’re looking for a great panoramic view of Tbilisi, this is definitely a fun way to get one!
Of course, we couldn’t leave without trying a local treat. We picked up some ponchiki, a traditional Georgian stuffed doughnut that looked absolutely delicious. Unfortunately, it didn’t quite live up to our expectations. It wasn’t terrible, just a little disappointing. I guess not every donut can be a winner! 😂
One thing worth knowing before visiting Mtatsminda Park is that many of the attractions operate using a prepaid card. You load money onto the card and use it to pay for rides and other activities throughout the park.
Even the bathrooms cost 1 GEL!
And while we’re on the subject of bathrooms, be prepared for a little surprise. Some of the restrooms have squat toilets instead of traditional toilets. No seat, just a hole in the floor and a great opportunity to work on those leg muscles!
Between the Ferris wheel, beautiful views, and our little bathroom adventure, Mtatsminda Park was definitely an interesting stop on our Tbilisi itinerary!
Georgian Candy & Dinner at Rainina Restaurant
On our way back toward the hotel, we came across one of Georgia’s most unusual traditional treats called churchkhela. If you’ve never seen it before, imagine a long, lumpy candle hanging from a string. They’re EVERYWHERE in Georgia!
Churchkhela is actually a traditional Georgian candy made by threading nuts onto a string, repeatedly dipping them into a thickened grape juice mixture, and then hanging them to dry. It’s definitely one of the more interesting local treats we came across, and something unique to look for while exploring Tbilisi!
For dinner, we decided to try Rainina Georgian Restaurant, which was a MUCH better experience than our dinner show the night before!
The restaurant is located in a charming little area near a flower market, with outdoor seating and friendly staff. It was a lovely place to relax and enjoy dinner after another busy day of sightseeing.
But we couldn’t stay too long because we had a 9 p.m. appointment for something I’d been looking forward to since arriving in Tbilisi…
The Georgian sulfur baths!
The Famous Sulfur Baths of Tbilisi
One experience I was REALLY looking forward to in Georgia was visiting the famous sulfur baths! We had booked a 9 p.m. appointment at Chreli Abano & Spa, also known as the Orbeliani Baths, one of the most recognizable bathhouses in Tbilisi.
The building itself is beautiful, with its blue-tiled, Persian-style exterior that looks like something straight out of a palace! Although the current building dates back to 1893, the tradition of sulfur bathing in Tbilisi goes back centuries.
In fact, legend has it that King Vakhtang Gorgasali discovered the natural hot springs while hunting in the 5th century and decided to establish a city around them. The name Tbilisi is even derived from the Georgian word for “warm.” Pretty interesting!
Naturally, I figured we couldn’t visit Tbilisi without experiencing the baths for ourselves!
We reserved a private VIP suite for 90 minutes, which included our own hot sulfur bath, cold plunge pool, and dry sauna. We also booked the traditional body scrub, which costs extra and needs to be paid directly to the attendants in cash.
Now, I knew what to expect from the scrub. I’m not entirely sure Kim did! 😂
Let’s just say watching his reaction when a Georgian man started soaping him up and scrubbing him down was one of the highlights of my trip! HAHA! I don’t think that was quite the relaxing spa treatment he had envisioned!
All joking aside, we both ended up really enjoying the experience. After two days of walking all over Tbilisi, soaking in the hot sulfur water felt AMAZING! Having our own private room made it even better, and it was such a unique way to experience one of the city’s oldest traditions.
My recommendation: If you’re visiting Tbilisi, definitely consider booking a private room at one of the historic sulfur bathhouses. This was easily one of my favorite experiences in Georgia!
Just make sure everyone knows what they’re signing up for when they book the scrub.
Especially your husband!
Day 3: Exploring Old Tbilisi, Mother of Georgia & a Few Unexpected Adventures
A Relaxed Morning & Postcards for the Grandkids
Our final day in Tbilisi started off a little slower than usual. Apparently, Georgia had become our vacation FROM our vacation!
Since we weren’t flying out until later that evening, we took advantage of my Marriott Bonvoy late checkout benefits and were able to leave our luggage at the hotel while we explored the city one last time.
After grabbing a quick bite to eat, I set off on one of my favorite little travel traditions… finding postcards for the grandkids!
I LOVE sending postcards from the different countries we visit, and the grandkids get so excited when they receive mail from Nana & Papa. ❤️
I eventually found some postcards in one of Tbilisi’s underground pedestrian walkways, but then came the challenge of tracking down a post office to buy stamps and actually mail them!
Sometimes finding a post office in a foreign country turns into an entire sightseeing adventure of its own. But it’s always worth it knowing how much the grandkids love receiving them!
Finally, the Gondola to Mother of Georgia
Since we had skipped the gondola on our first day because of the ridiculously long line, we decided to give it another try!
The gondola station was about a 15-minute walk from our hotel, but when we realized a Bolt would only cost $1.50, the decision was pretty easy. 😂
Tickets were 10 GEL per person, and we found that the ticket window only accepted cash, so make sure you have some Georgian lari with you! Thankfully, the line was MUCH shorter this time, and we were on our way up the mountain in no time.
The gondola ride offered beautiful views of Tbilisi, with the Kura River winding through the city and colorful buildings stretching across the surrounding hills.
At the top, we visited the famous Mother of Georgia statue, also known as Kartlis Deda. Erected in 1958 to celebrate Tbilisi’s 1,500th anniversary, this enormous statue has become one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks.
One thing I found especially interesting was the symbolism behind the statue. She holds a bowl of wine in one hand to welcome friends and a sword in the other to defend against enemies. I LOVE that!
Although, after our traditional Georgian dinner-show experience, I was starting to understand just how important the wine part was!
I will say, the statue was a little disappointing to see up close. Because of its location along the edge of the hill, it’s difficult to get a good picture from the front. Most of the viewpoints only allow you to see it from the side.
There’s also an entrance to the National Botanical Garden of Georgia nearby if you’re interested in exploring more of the area.
After taking a few pictures and enjoying the views, we headed back to the gondola station for our ride down.
Only to discover that it had BROKEN DOWN!
There was no ride down and no refund. Instead, we were left with a long, steep walk down the hillside on broken, uneven stairs. Not exactly what we had planned after several days of sightseeing in the heat!
Thankfully, we eventually made it back down in one piece, although I think we would have appreciated that $1.50 Bolt ride a whole lot more at that point!
My tip: The gondola is a great way to enjoy panoramic views of Tbilisi, but wear comfortable walking shoes and be prepared for the possibility of walking down if it’s not operating.
The Balloon Ride That Never Happened
After our unexpected hike down from the Mother of Georgia statue, we made our way back across the Bridge of Peace. I had been hoping to ride the large tethered hot-air balloon that takes visitors high above Tbilisi for some beautiful panoramic views of the city.
Unfortunately, when we arrived, we discovered that it was CLOSED due to high winds.
High winds?! What wind?! We couldn’t feel a breeze!
Apparently, the balloon operators knew something we didn’t, because there was definitely no balloon ride happening that day.
So, between the broken gondola and the closed balloon ride, our last day in Tbilisi wasn’t exactly going according to plan!
Oh well! That’s part of the adventure of traveling. Sometimes you just have to laugh and move on to the next thing!
A Little Shopping & the Best Ice Cream in Georgia
Although our afternoon hadn’t gone quite as planned, all that unexpected walking did lead us to a lovely little art shop!
I came across some beautiful handmade jewelry created by a local artist using painted enamel and shells set in silver. This type of jewelry is popular in Georgia, but you do have to be careful of imitation pieces. I was told that the fake versions tend to have a much shinier appearance, so it’s worth taking a closer look before purchasing!
I love finding unique, locally made souvenirs when we travel, especially things that remind me of the places we’ve visited. Naturally, I couldn’t resist buying a beautiful pair of earrings!
And while a pair of earrings wasn’t exactly what we’d planned to bring home from our gondola adventure, I was pretty happy with my unexpected find!
On our way back to the hotel, we stumbled across something even better… cherry wine ice cream!
Now, I don’t drink wine, but I certainly LOVE ice cream! And let me tell you, this was probably the BEST thing we ate during our entire stay in Georgia!
After three days of sampling traditional Georgian cuisine, who would have thought that cherry wine ice cream would end up being our favorite?!
It was the perfect sweet ending to three days of interesting sights, unexpected adventures, and some very memorable experiences in Tbilisi!
My Tips for Visiting Tbilisi
After spending three days exploring Tbilisi, here are a few things I would recommend knowing before your visit!
- Use Bolt for transportation. It’s Georgia’s version of Uber, and rides around Tbilisi were incredibly inexpensive! I would especially recommend using it when traveling from the airport rather than accepting rides from random taxi drivers.
- Stay near Freedom Square. We loved the central location of our Courtyard by Marriott hotel. Many of the main attractions were within walking distance, making it a great home base for exploring the city.
- Pack earplugs! Tbilisi can be NOISY, especially if your hotel overlooks one of the busy streets or traffic circles.
- Carry some Georgian lari (GEL). Although we could use credit cards in many places, some attractions and smaller businesses required cash.
- Compare ATM fees. We noticed that the yellow ATMs had lower withdrawal fees than the blue ones during our visit.
- Bring a headscarf when visiting churches. Women are expected to cover their heads in many Georgian Orthodox churches, so having a scarf handy is a good idea.
- Book a private sulfur bath experience. This was easily one of our favorite activities in Tbilisi! Just remember that traditional scrubs are an additional charge.
- Wear comfortable walking shoes. Tbilisi has LOTS of hills, stairs, uneven sidewalks, and construction. You’ll definitely get your steps in!
- Be flexible with your plans. Between the broken gondola, closed balloon ride, and unexpected walking detours, we learned that not everything goes according to plan in Georgia!
- And finally… try the cherry wine ice cream! Seriously. It was SO good!
One last tip: If someone asks to borrow your phone to check your dinner-show reservation, you might want to keep an eye on what they’re doing…
Would I Go Back to Georgia?
Well… probably not!
Don’t get me wrong, Georgia has some beautiful sights, fascinating history, unique traditions, and some genuinely friendly people. I can absolutely understand why so many travelers fall in love with this country!
I’ve heard wonderful things about Georgia’s countryside and mountains, and I wouldn’t mind visiting the Black Sea coast someday. But if I’m being completely honest, Tbilisi just wasn’t one of my favorite cities.
Between the constant construction, a few questionable tourist experiences, and attractions that didn’t quite live up to our expectations, it wasn’t exactly the destination I’d imagined.
A friend of mine described Georgia as “what you’d get if Temu were a country.” And after spending three days here, I have to admit… I can kind of see what they meant!
That being said, I’m still glad we made the stop! What originally started as a way to save money traveling between Italy and Azerbaijan turned into three days filled with interesting sights, unexpected adventures, and some pretty hilarious memories.
One thing I’ve learned from traveling is that not every destination has to be your favorite to be worth visiting. Sometimes the best part of travel is getting to experience somewhere completely different, even if you leave knowing you probably won’t be returning anytime soon.
And while Georgia may not have made it to the top of my favorite destinations list, it certainly gave us some stories we’ll be laughing about for years to come!
Keep Exploring with Me! 🌎✈️
Before our unexpected adventure in Georgia, we were exploring the beautiful lakeside towns of northern Italy! From charming villages and stunning mountain views to unforgettable day trips, Lake Garda was definitely a highlight of our travels.
If you missed it, check out my Lake Garda Travel Itinerary for more travel inspiration!
Where will Mom be next? 🌎
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