Azerbaijan! Not exactly the first place that comes to mind when planning a vacation, right? But here we are! And believe it or not, this was actually my SECOND visit to Baku.
After my first trip, I really didn’t think I’d ever be back. But Formula 1 has a funny way of taking us to places we never expected to visit once, let alone twice!
Baku is the capital of Azerbaijan, located right along the Caspian Sea. It’s an interesting mix of old and new. One minute you’re wandering through narrow cobblestone streets surrounded by ancient stone buildings, and the next you’re looking up at enormous glass skyscrapers. It’s a little bit of Russia, a little bit of the Middle East, and a whole lot of its own thing!
We spent 4 days in Baku, Azerbaijan, enjoying everything from Formula 1 racing and ancient temples to mud volcanoes and a mountain that’s literally on fire!
First Things First — A Few Travel Tips
Before we get into the fun stuff, here are a couple of things worth knowing if you’re planning a trip to Azerbaijan!
Don’t forget your visa
Americans and Canadians need a visa to visit Azerbaijan. We applied online, paid $79 each, and allowed four business days for processing. Make sure you print a paper copy to take with you through passport control. I’d also recommend checking the official visa website before your trip, since requirements and prices can change.
Take advantage of your airbnb host!
Landing in a foreign country can feel a little overwhelming, especially when you’re arriving late at night and don’t speak the language.
I contacted our Airbnb host ahead of time and asked if they could arrange an airport transfer. They were happy to help, and when we landed, there was our driver holding a sign with our name on it. Easy!
Addresses can be confusing in Baku, so having someone who already knew where we needed to go made everything so much easier.
Honestly, Airbnb hosts are one of the most underused travel resources! I always ask mine for recommendations and help arranging things. They want you to have a great stay, and ours went above and beyond. They arranged our airport transfers and even helped us book a private driver and tour guide for our last day.
Don’t be afraid to ask!
Day 1 — Let the Racing Begin!
We slept in a little on our first morning in Baku before heading out to find breakfast.
And where did we eat on our first morning in Azerbaijan?
Starbucks.
I know. I know. We travel halfway around the world and eat breakfast at Starbucks. Not exactly immersing ourselves in the local culture, but sometimes convenience wins!
After breakfast, we headed over to the Formula 1 festivities.
One thing Baku does REALLY well is put on a Formula 1 event. The race circuit runs right through the city, and the entire waterfront turns into a giant fan zone.
And when I say giant, I mean there is SO much to do!
We spent hours walking along the waterfront, checking out everything from racing simulators and classic cars to zip lines, ninja warrior courses, tiny race cars, bounce houses, and photo opportunities. There were multiple stages with music, dancers, and performances. It’s basically a giant party!
One of our favorite activities was the pit stop challenge, where you get to see how fast you can change a Formula 1 tire.
We managed an impressive 2.5 seconds! I’m thinking we might have a future career in the pit lane!
After spending most of the day enjoying the festivities, we made our way into Baku’s Old City for dinner.
The Old City is surrounded by ancient stone walls and filled with narrow cobblestone streets, restaurants, shops, and beautiful historic buildings. Walking through it at night under the moonlight was one of my favorite parts of the day.
There’s just something magical about an old city all lit up at night.
Day 2 — A Two-Hour Breakfast and Katy Perry!
After our very adventurous Starbucks breakfast yesterday, we decided to try something a little more local this morning!
We headed to Natavan, a restaurant in Baku’s Old City that came highly recommended. The restaurant itself was beautiful, with a lovely atmosphere and wonderful views. We found a table, ordered our food, and settled in for what we thought would be a relaxing breakfast.
Well, relaxing might be an understatement.
TWO HOURS.
That’s how long it took to get our breakfast! And the craziest part? There were hardly any other customers in the restaurant!
We kept thinking our food would surely be coming any minute, but the minutes just kept ticking by. We seriously considered leaving several times, but there was a pretty significant language barrier, which made the whole situation even more frustrating.
The restaurant was charming, and the views were lovely, but would I go back? Nope! Sometimes even the most highly recommended restaurants turn out to be a miss.
Once we finally escaped our never-ending breakfast, we headed back to the racetrack for more Formula 1 festivities, Formula 2 racing, and qualifying.
After a quick break at our Airbnb, it was time for one of the highlights of the weekend… Katy Perry!
One of the fun things about attending Formula 1 in Baku is that the race weekend includes some pretty big concerts. We walked down to the shuttle buses, which took us out to the Crystal Hall area near Azerbaijan’s enormous flag.
The concert was packed! Our fan zone tickets gave us access to the floor, which was standing room only, but that was perfectly fine with us. Katy Perry put on a great show, and we had such a fun evening!
We did make one smart decision, though. We left a little early to beat the crowds back to the buses. The shuttles dropped us near the racetrack, leaving us with about a 30-minute walk back to our apartment.
And this is where I discovered one of my favorite things about Baku. This city stays up LATE!
It was around midnight, and the streets were still full of people! Restaurants were open, families were out walking, and the whole downtown area was bustling with activity. We decided to stop for a late-night dinner and ordered a giant assortment of grilled meats.
If you’re visiting Azerbaijan and want to sample a variety of local dishes, one of these big meat platters is a great way to try several things at once!
I loved how lively the city felt, even so late at night. The streets were well-lit, there were people everywhere, and we felt completely comfortable walking back to our apartment.
It was a fun way to end another busy day in Baku!
Day 3 — Race Day! 🏁
The big day had finally arrived! After two days of Formula 1 festivities, it was finally time for the Azerbaijan Grand Prix!
And yes, we went to Starbucks again.
Don’t judge. We had a race to get to!
We wanted to get to the track early enough to watch the Formula 2 final, the drivers’ parade, and all the pre-race festivities. There is so much happening before the race even begins, and it’s fun just watching the teams and drivers get everything ready.
Our seats were right along the starting grid, and if you’re planning to attend the Azerbaijan Grand Prix, I would HIGHLY recommend sitting in this area!
We had a great view of the teams preparing their cars, all the excitement leading up to the start, and even the podium for the post-race celebrations. It was such a fun place to experience the race!
And then, of course, there is nothing quite like hearing those Formula 1 engines and watching the cars fly past you!
After the race, we decided to stay in our seats for a while and let the crowds thin out. No sense joining thousands of people all trying to leave at once!
Eventually, we made our way back along the waterfront and headed into the Old City for another evening of exploring.
We wandered through some of the historic areas, admiring the old fortress walls and buildings before finding a restaurant for dinner. One of the things I especially enjoyed was listening to local musicians playing traditional Azerbaijani instruments, including the tar and tambourine. The tar is a beautiful long-necked string instrument, and I always love hearing traditional music when we travel.
After dinner, we took our time walking back through the busy streets and squares. Once again, Baku was full of people enjoying the evening! The fountains were lit up, restaurants were bustling, and families were out walking together.
I really loved this about Baku. Even after a long day at the racetrack, it was fun to wander around the city and enjoy the atmosphere.
Another great day in Azerbaijan!
Day 4 — Mud Volcanoes, Ancient Rock Art, and a Mountain on Fire!
Today was our day to venture outside of Baku and explore a little more of Azerbaijan!
Our Airbnb host had arranged for a private guide and driver to pick us up right in front of our apartment. This made everything so much easier! We didn’t have to worry about navigating unfamiliar roads, figuring out how to get from place to place, or dealing with the language barrier.
We had quite the itinerary planned, with everything from bubbling mud volcanoes and ancient rock carvings to temples and a mountain that has been burning for years!
Stop 1: Mud Volcanoes
Our first stop was the famous mud volcanoes near Gobustan.
And they are pretty much exactly what they sound like. Little mounds of mud bubbling away, with some shaped like miniature volcanoes.
We walked along the designated pathways, watching the mud bubble and gurgle out of the small cones. There’s also a museum where you can learn more about the volcanoes and how they form.
Apparently, Azerbaijan is home to hundreds of mud volcanoes, making it one of the best-known places in the world to see them.
Now, having spent quite a bit of time exploring Yellowstone and the western United States, I have to admit that these weren’t quite as impressive as some of the geothermal features we’ve seen back home.
They actually reminded me a little of Yellowstone, just on a much smaller (and muddier!) scale.
But they were still fun to see, and if you’ve never experienced anything like this before, I think you’d find them pretty interesting!
Would I go out of my way just to see the mud volcanoes? Probably not. But as part of a day trip exploring the area, they’re worth a stop!
Stop 2: Gobustan — Ancient Petroglyphs
Our next stop was Gobustan National Park, home to thousands of ancient rock carvings, some dating back tens of thousands of years!
We started in the museum, where our guide explained the history of the petroglyphs, what the different shapes represented, and what we should look for when we went outside.
I always appreciate doing the museum first. Otherwise, you can end up looking at a bunch of rocks thinking, “Okay, that’s nice, but what am I looking at?”
Then we headed up into the rocky hills.
There are pathways winding through the enormous rock formations, taking you past ancient caves and areas where people lived thousands of years ago. The petroglyphs depict animals, hunters, boats, and scenes of everyday life. It’s pretty amazing to think about people living here so long ago and leaving behind little glimpses into what their lives were like.
We were also warned to stay on the designated paths because of snakes and scorpions.
Lovely!
Thankfully, we didn’t encounter either, although we did spot a few little lizards running around.
Having explored quite a few areas in Utah and the American Southwest, we’ve seen some pretty impressive petroglyphs over the years. But I still find it fascinating that people living in completely different parts of the world, thousands of years apart, left behind such similar records of their lives.
I enjoyed Gobustan, especially having learned a little about the history beforehand. If you’re interested in ancient history or archaeology, it’s definitely worth including on a day trip outside Baku!
Stop 3: Lunch on the Caspian Sea
After spending the morning exploring mud volcanoes and ancient rock carvings, we were ready for lunch!
Our guide took us to a seaside restaurant called Bül Bül, located right along the Caspian Sea. We sat outside under a big umbrella with a beautiful view of the water. Not a bad place to stop for lunch!
And of course, I had to walk down and touch the Caspian Sea. How often do you get to say you’ve done that?
One interesting thing about the Caspian Sea is that it’s actually the largest inland body of water in the world! Despite its name, it’s technically a lake, surrounded by five countries with no direct connection to the ocean.
Our guide highly recommended the trout, so naturally, that’s what we ordered.
Now, trout isn’t exactly my favorite fish, but when you’re sitting on the Caspian Sea and the locals recommend it, you might as well give it a try!
And guess what?
It tasted like trout.
Shocking, I know!
Thankfully, it came with a yummy sauce, and we also enjoyed trying some of the local vegetables, spreads, and dips.
For dessert, we ordered traditional Azerbaijani baklava, which was quite different from the baklava I’m used to. Instead of the light, flaky layers, this version was much denser and very sweet. It almost reminded me of a giant Fig Newton with a walnut on top!
Not necessarily my new favorite dessert, but definitely fun to try!
Overall, it was a lovely lunch stop with beautiful views of the Caspian Sea and an opportunity to try some traditional Azerbaijani food.
Stop 4: Bibi-Heybat Mosque — A Fascinating Story
Our next stop was one of the most beautiful and historically interesting places we visited.
From the outside, it’s a gorgeous mosque with beautiful architecture. But the story behind it is what makes it so special.
According to local tradition, a woman named Hakima, a descendant of the Prophet Muhammad’s family, fled persecution and eventually made her way to the area near Baku. She was cared for by a man named Heybat, and after her death, she was buried there. Her burial place eventually became an important pilgrimage site, and a mosque was built over her tomb in the 13th century.
For hundreds of years, Muslims traveled to this sacred place to pray and pay their respects.
But here’s where the story takes an interesting turn.
In the 1930s, during the Soviet Union’s campaign against religion, the original mosque was completely destroyed.
Literally blown up!
And as if that weren’t enough, a road was eventually built right over the burial site.
Our guide told us that local Muslims who knew what was buried beneath the road would deliberately walk along the side of it rather than step over the sacred graves. Even though the mosque was gone, the location was still considered holy.
I thought that was such an interesting detail!
After Azerbaijan gained independence from the Soviet Union, the burial site was uncovered and the mosque was eventually rebuilt, reopening in 1998.
Today, the mosque is absolutely beautiful. Inside, there’s an elaborate tomb area decorated in turquoise, gold, and silver. Visitors come to pray, touch the enclosure, and pay their respects.
What made this stop so memorable for me wasn’t just the architecture, although it really is stunning. It was knowing that this sacred place had been destroyed, paved over, and eventually brought back to life.
It’s amazing how much more meaningful a place becomes when you understand the history behind it.
I’m really glad our guide included this stop on our tour!
Stop 5: Ateshgah Fire Temple
Our next stop was Ateshgah Fire Temple, a temple built around something you don’t see every day. Fire coming straight out of the ground!
Azerbaijan is often called the Land of Fire, and after visiting this temple, it’s easy to understand why.
For centuries, natural gas escaping from beneath the earth created flames that appeared to burn without any obvious fuel. Imagine living hundreds of years ago and seeing fire coming directly out of the ground with no explanation for how it got there!
It’s no wonder people considered this a sacred place.
One thing I found particularly interesting was how low some of the doorways were. Our guide explained that visitors would have to bow their heads to enter, almost as though they were bowing toward the sacred fire.
Well, everyone else had to bow.
I’m short enough that I could pretty much walk right through! Apparently, being short does have its advantages!
Another interesting detail is that the flames you see today aren’t quite the same as the original ones. Over time, the natural gas supply declined as oil and gas development expanded in the area. Today, gas is supplied to keep the central flame burning.
Even knowing that, I still thought it was fascinating to visit a temple built around something as unusual as fire naturally coming out of the earth.
Definitely not something you see every day!
Stop 6: Yanar Dag — The Burning Mountain
Our final sightseeing stop of the day was Yanar Dag, also known as the Burning Mountain.
And yes, the mountain is actually on fire!
Unlike the Ateshgah Fire Temple, where gas is now supplied to keep the flames burning, the fire at Yanar Dag is fueled by natural gas escaping directly from the earth.
When you arrive, there’s an amphitheater-style seating area facing a hillside. Along the base of the hill, flames are continuously burning right out of the ground!
No logs, no campfire, and no one standing around with a lighter. Just natural gas seeping through the rocks and keeping the flames alive.
And let me tell you, those flames are HOT! You can really feel the heat when you get close.
It’s pretty fascinating to see something like this happening naturally, especially knowing that Azerbaijan has been associated with these mysterious flames for centuries.
But here’s my advice if you’re planning a visit: you really don’t need much time here.
Honestly, about 5–10 minutes is plenty to admire the flames, snap a few pictures, and say, “Well, would you look at that? A mountain on fire!”
I enjoyed seeing it, and it’s certainly something unique, but I wouldn’t plan an entire outing around it.
If you’re already exploring the area and visiting Ateshgah Fire Temple, though, it’s definitely worth adding to your itinerary!
Our Final Evening in Baku
After a full day exploring Azerbaijan’s history, culture, and some pretty unusual natural attractions, we were ready for dinner!
And at this point, we were also ready for something other than Azerbaijani food.
Sometimes you just want pasta!
We found a cute little Italian restaurant called Trattoria L’Oliva in downtown Baku and enjoyed a relaxing dinner before heading out to explore the city one last time.
We wandered through the beautiful downtown squares, admiring the fountains, monuments, and even a little merry-go-round. I really can’t say enough about how lovely Baku is in the evenings!
One thing that continued to surprise me was just how clean and beautifully maintained everything was. Some of the streets even had marble curbing! Seriously, marble!
The city was full of people out enjoying the evening. Families were strolling through the squares, restaurants were busy, and there were plenty of places to stop for dessert or just sit and enjoy the atmosphere.
For such a large, modern city, Baku has a surprisingly charming feel to it, especially at night.
I think some of my favorite memories from this trip were simply wandering around the city after dinner, taking in the beautiful architecture and enjoying the lively atmosphere.
Not a bad way to end our time in Azerbaijan!
Cats, Cats, and More Cats!
One thing you can’t help but notice in Baku is the CATS! They are EVERYWHERE! Wandering through the streets, lounging in the sunshine, and especially hanging around outdoor restaurants hoping someone might share their dinner.
The locals seem to love them, and we even noticed little cat houses built around the city to give them a place to sleep. So cute!
The restaurant waiters, however, didn’t seem quite as enthusiastic about their furry friends!
Every time we sat down for dinner, we seemed to attract a few hungry cats looking for a handout. And apparently, the waiters had a solution. Spray bottles!
They would actually come out with bottles of water to shoo the cats away so we could eat in peace. It was pretty funny watching this little game of cat and mouse (or should I say cat and waiter?) play out during dinner.
Those cats definitely know where the good food is, and they aren’t the least bit shy about asking for some!
A Few Other Things That Make Baku Unique
The Flame Towers
You really can’t miss the Flame Towers! These three enormous glass skyscrapers sit high above Baku’s Old City and have become one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks.
They’re shaped like flames, which seems pretty appropriate for a country known as the Land of Fire!
But the best part is seeing them at night. The buildings light up with enormous LED displays that change colors and patterns. During Formula 1 weekend, they even displayed checkered flags!
It’s almost like having a miniature Las Vegas Sphere overlooking the city!
I loved seeing these futuristic buildings towering above the ancient stone walls of the Old City. Such an interesting contrast!
The Carpet Museum
Yes, Azerbaijan has an entire museum dedicated to carpets!
But honestly, the thing that caught my attention wasn’t the carpets themselves. It was the building!
The Azerbaijan National Carpet Museum is located along Baku’s waterfront, and the entire building is designed to look like a giant rolled-up carpet.
Seriously! A giant carpet!
We didn’t go inside, but even just walking past it was fun. Definitely one of the more unusual museum buildings I’ve seen!
The Waterfront
One of my favorite parts of Baku was the waterfront promenade along the Caspian Sea.
There are wide walking paths, beautiful gardens, fountains, and plenty of places to sit and enjoy the views. It’s a wonderful area to explore, especially in the evenings when everyone seems to be out enjoying the city.
And during Formula 1 weekend, the waterfront becomes even more exciting with all the activities, entertainment, and festivities.
We spent a LOT of time wandering around this area, and I never got tired of it!
The Old City – Icherisheher
If there’s one area of Baku I would recommend spending some time exploring, it’s definitely the Old City!
Surrounded by ancient stone walls, this historic part of Baku is filled with narrow cobblestone streets, beautiful buildings, little shops, and restaurants.
I especially loved wandering through the Old City in the evenings, when everything was lit up and the streets were full of people.
And one of the things that makes Baku so interesting is that you can be walking through these centuries-old streets, look up, and see the modern Flame Towers rising above you!
It’s such a unique combination of old and new, and I think that’s part of what makes Baku so charming.
So, What Did I Think of Azerbaijan?
I have to say, Baku really surprised me!
It’s a beautiful city, incredibly clean, and much more modern than I think most people would expect. I loved the waterfront, the historic Old City, and especially how lively everything was in the evenings. We felt very comfortable walking around, even late at night, and there always seemed to be people out enjoying the city.
We encountered plenty of people who spoke English, although there were definitely a few language barriers along the way. Just ask anyone who was waiting with us for our two-hour breakfast!
One thing I found particularly interesting was Azerbaijan’s unique mix of cultures and influences. Geographically, it sits at a crossroads between Eastern Europe, Russia, and the Middle East. You can see little pieces of those influences throughout the city, but Azerbaijan definitely has its own identity, history, and traditions.
Would I Recommend Visiting?
Absolutely! But with a few qualifications.
If you’re a Formula 1 fan, Baku is a fantastic place to attend a race! They really know how to put on a great event. The fan zone is amazing, the concerts are a fun bonus, and having the racetrack run right through the city makes the whole experience even more exciting.
If you’re not into Formula 1, I still think Baku is worth visiting, especially if you’re already traveling in this part of the world.
Would I fly all the way from the United States just to visit Baku?
Probably not.
It’s not the easiest destination to get to, and I think it makes more sense as part of a bigger trip.
As for the sightseeing outside the city, I enjoyed seeing the mud volcanoes and petroglyphs, but if you’ve spent much time exploring Yellowstone, Utah, or the American Southwest, those particular stops might not blow you away.
The mosque, fire temple, and Burning Mountain were more unique experiences, and I especially appreciated learning about the history and culture behind them.
Would I Go Back?
Well, considering I’ve now been twice, I guess I should never say never!
After my first visit, I honestly didn’t think I’d ever return. But Formula 1 brought us back, and I enjoyed the city all over again!
I wouldn’t necessarily plan another trip just to see the same sights, but if we happened to be traveling nearby or Formula 1 brought us back for a third time, I certainly wouldn’t complain!
And honestly, some of my favorite memories from Baku weren’t even the big attractions. They were simply wandering through the beautiful streets in the evenings, enjoying the waterfront, admiring the architecture, and watching the city come alive.
Baku probably isn’t on most people’s travel bucket lists, but sometimes those unexpected destinations turn out to be the most interesting!
And really, where else can you spend a weekend watching Formula 1, attend a Katy Perry concert, explore ancient caves, and stand in front of a mountain that’s literally on fire?
Only in Azerbaijan!
Until the next adventure,
Where Is My Mom Now?
Looking for Another Adventure? 🌎
If you enjoyed exploring Azerbaijan with me, why not head next door to Georgia? From wandering the charming streets of Tbilisi to a rather unforgettable bathhouse experience, this trip certainly had its share of adventures!
Check out my 3 Days in Tbilisi, Georgia: Giant Statues, Questionable Boat Tours & a Very Memorable Bathhouse for another adventure in the Caucasus.
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